Monday, February 25, 2008

Definitely the most adventurous...

As the headline says, today was definitely filled with more adventure than any other so far this trip. Our day was all about the Old City of Jerusalem, the city within the walls that were built many years ago. We began by passing through the Dung Gate, the last of eight gates built, named aptly after the sheep, goats and trash pile that inhabited the area before the gate was built. We immediately passed through security and looked down over the Wailing Wall. Our first stop of the morning was to the pool of Bethesda, or as they say Bet Hezda which means house of mercy. We read from John 5, the story of the man who had been waiting at the pool when Jesus approached. We then gathered as a group and lifted the names of those sick and ill that we knew of. It was amazing to hear all the names called out. I realize that many of our pastors are dealing with a lot of sick and ailing people. The Bishop then led us in an emotional prayer. Near the pool sits the Church of St. Ann, the mother of Mary, grandmother of Jesus whose house sits below the church. This was one of the only churches that the Muslim didn't destroy when they took over the city. The inside of the church was very simple and plain, but the acoustics were unbelievable. After a member of our group sang the first verse of Amazing Grace, the rest of us joined in singing a simple Alleluia. The sound echoed and seemed to go on forever. We will never again wonder why some churches chant like they do. With acoustic like St. Ann's, you'd be crazy not to.

We then began the Via Dolorosa (spelled wrong yesterday) or the Painful Way, the walk that Jesus had to make in order to get from St. Antonio's Fortress where he was condemned to die to the Skull of Golgotha and the cross of Calvary. The Via Dolorosa contains 14 Stations all along the way that detail the actions of Christ. The majority can be found in Scripture, while a few have been passed down as simple tradition. Our journey ended at the Church of The Holy Sepulchre, which contains the site of his Crucifixion, the slab of marble they laid his body on to prepare it for burial and the traditional tomb that he was laid in. The tomb was nothing like we expected. In fact, it was so crowded that we didn't get a chance to see it the first time through with the large group. The Church of the Holy Sepulchre was so crowded that it kind of took away from the experience for us. Our guide said that the only time she had ever seen it this crowded was during Holy Week. The one thing that we did take from the visit to this truly Holy site was the fact that Christianity is far from dead. While it may feel like that at times in the US, the large group of people from many nations, speaking many different languages, is a testimony to how the faith is growing world-wide.

After a lunch of Shwarma, a Middle Eastern staple that even Joe enjoyed we headed to the Jewish Quarter just as school was getting out. It was really neat to see all the school kids heading home. It is amazing how similar kids are on the other side of the world. We walked to the Western Wailing Wall where we had the chance to pray and place our written prayers in the cracks of the ancient wall. It is the one wall left from the temple that was destroyed in 70 AD...and the only part of the temple which Jews are allowed to worship. We then walked around the corner to the Southern Steps where Jesus sat and taught his disciples. Many of the steps are original to the time of Jesus. Needless to say, we sat down and looked over David's Jerusalem imagining what it would have been like to sit there and listen to the words of Jesus.

Our day ended with our most endevorous adventure. The bus dropped 5 of us who wanted to go back to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre off at the Jaffa Gate. We went back to the church to wait in line so that we could go into the tomb of Jesus. With three churches built over it, it didn't look much like the original tomb. Yet being in a place that has been venerated for over 17 centuries was a holy experience. And the best part of it was that the tomb was empty!

We then made our way through the city down the Cordo(street that runs through the haert of the city) to the Damascus Gate and back to the hotel. All in the rain! But all by ourselves! We were very proud of ourselves.

Tonight we ate dinner at a local restaurant. It was fantastic! Way too much food, but so much better than the hotel food. It was the perfect ending to the day.

This should be our last report of our trip. We have some things in the morning and then free time in the afternoon before heading to the airport in Tel Aviv. With sadness, we report to you for the last time from the Holy Land. It is with a great deal of confidence that we recommend each of you coming on your own pilgrimage to this wonderful land that is filled with many beautiful and amazing sites. Maybe one day we could even lead a group that you could join with. But above all else, as we will do constantly in our lives, we ask you to pray for this land. While visiting it, we realize how deep the pain truly goes, and we believe we have only scratched the surface. This land needs our prayers, simply so it will be around for our children and grandchildren to come and to visit. Thanks for reading and thanks for praying for us. We love you all and will see you very soon. Shalom, Salaam, and Peace.

Sunday, February 24, 2008

A day of rest...sort of

Our day began at a worship service with Holy Communion @ St. George Anglican Cathedral. In an intimate setting about fifty pilgrims, most from the US worshiped together led by an Anglican priest. In Jerusalem they don't have many Protestant Churches, a Baptist (not southern) and a Lutheran, along with a couple of Anglican communities, and that's about it. They have more Catholic and Orthodox Churches than anything else. The most interesting, even ironical, thing about this morning was the fact that the Gospel lesson was Jesus meeting the Samaritan woman at the well, John 4. The irony comes from the fact that the sermon we had to write for the Board of Ordained Ministry in order to be ordained by the SC Conference was on the very same passage. Pilgrims together, through a common journey, went through and common experience, linked again to where we've come from...quite amazing.

After church, we drove the same route as yesterday going even further south through the Judean Desert to the ancient ruins of Masada. Masada is a site in the mountains where Herod the Great built a palace and fortress. Later the area was abandoned. After the fall of Jerusalem to the Romans in 70AD, the Zealots retreated south and took over the Masada fortress. In 73AD, the Roman Army surrounded the Fortress at the base of the mountain in an effort to crush the last of those who opposed Rome. The Roman Army took 9 months to build a ramp large enough to reach the fortress. Upon entering, the Roman soldiers found all but a couple of woman and children alive. After a stirring speech by the Zealot leader, the men and women chose death by their own hands rather than death by the Romans or enslavement. It is considered a heroic act (by some) and one in which Israel of today still uses. The Israeli rallying cry is "Masada will not fall again!"

After lunch at Masada and a quick float and mud bath in the Dead Sea (it was cold), we traveled back North towards Jerusalem, stopping just short of the city, just like Jesus often did, in order to visit his friends, Mary, Martha and Lazarus. We visited yet another beautiful sanctuary at the site of Mary and Martha's house. Outside we read from John 11, the moving story of the death of Lazarus. Up the street we entered a cave-like door and descended down many stairs to the Tomb of Lazarus.

While it may have appeared like a short day, I assure you all, we are tired. Sadly, our trip is coming to an end too quickly. But we have saved probably the most important day for tomorrow, our last full day in Israel. Tomorrow, we walk the Old City of Jerusalem, we walk the Via Delarosa, or the Way of the Cross. It is the journey that Christ made carrying the cross that would eventually hang him for his final moments and honor him for eternity. Please continue to pray for strength for this journey, as we are worn down, but still open to God's Word. Again, we miss you and love you. Have a great night...Shalom, Salaam, Peace.

Saturday, February 23, 2008

Holy Thursday Walk and More...

Well, today was much more upbeat day. This morning we walked our little legs off. Beginning on the Mount of Olives where the Galilean Jews would stay during Passover and was the site of the Ascension of Jesus. Supposedly the footprint of Jesus remains there still today, but after seeing it, the fact is suspect at best. Again, while exact facts are unknown, the broad details remain in place. After riding a camel, we walked down to the Mount of Olives, in what is believed to be the Palm Sunday route Jesus used to enter Jerusalem found in Matthew 21:1-11. Along the way down we stopped at the Dominus Flerit Church, which was the spot where Jesus wept over the city of Jerusalem, Matthew 23:37-39. The church itself is a beautiful structure with its top shaped like a tear drop with tear jars surrounding it. From the church, you have one of the best views of the entire old city of Jerusalem. Jesus would ahve easily been able to look over the city when he said, "Jerusalem, O Jerusalem." Toward the bottom of the Mount of Olives, we arrived at the Garden of Gethsemane. We learned that 'Gethsemane' means Olive press and the idea was that Jesus on that fateful night was crushed with despair like an olive in a press, so much so that he sweated blood, Matthew 26:36-46. The olive trees in the garden have been dated to well before the time of Christ. If you want a moving experience, try singing "In the Garden" looking at the same trees that Jesus was among when he was turned over by the betrayer. Several couldn't finish the song. The church on this location has three names, The Church of Gethsemane, The Church of All Nations (b/c of donations to build it), and lastly, and most appropriately, The Church of Agony. The design of the building completely captures the somber mood of the site. It would be hard to truly worship in such a beautifully, gut wrenchingly symbolic sanctuary. After boarding the bus, we made a quick visit to the Jerusalem Princess Basma Center for Disabled Children. It helps over 20 kids in the area with different disabilities, most of whom are hearing impaired, as well as a school with 600 kids on site. The kids were very cute and no different from those in American Schools. Interestingly enough, the school has mostly Muslim students with several Christian students and Christianity is part of their curriculum. Megan was yet again reminded of her kids back home, whom she misses tremendously at Epworth. Leaving the Center, we headed down to Jericho and Qumran. Along the way, we passed the Church of the Good Samaritan honoring the place where the traveller fell into the hands of the robbers and the sacrificial deed of the Samaritan. Also along the journey, the countryside was noticeably different. Travelling through the Judean Desert, we came to see what many of us expected to see, sandy, arid, mountainous region. In these mountains, we came to Qumran. Qumran is teh place in which the Essenes, a Jewish sect lived in the time of Jesus. in the 1970s, a little shepherd boy found some scrolls in jars that contained the writings of the Old Testament, that were dated back to the first century, also known as the Dead Sea Scrolls. Leaving Qumran we experienced another checkpoint as we passed into the Palestinian land of Jericho. Jericho in the New Testament was the place Jesus healed a man and also the same place he called Zacchaeus down out of the tree in Luke. The only sycamore tree that is still in Jericho is over 2000 years old. Is it the same one? who knows, but you know we stopped and took pictures. Right outside of Jericho we visited a lookout spot at the base of the mountain where Jesus encountered the devil and experienced temptation. Built into the side of the mountain is a really amazing monastery served by only one monk. I hope he is an introvert. After that, we made our way slowly back to Jerusalem because our bus had some serious trouble climbing back up from the lowest point in the world, the Dead Sea. We closed the day today by celebrating Ellen Smith's birthday in which the wait staff sang 'Happy Birthday' and gave her a cake with a sparkler in it. It was the perfect ending to a wonderful day. Once again we saw some great things under some fantastic weather. Thanks for reading and for praying for us. To each of you, Shalom, Salaam and Peace!

Friday, February 22, 2008

Today Emotions Flow

We sit writing this as we listen to the Muslim call to prayer coming from the Minaret right outside of our room. It brings into focus the day we have had...an overwhelming awareness of the clash of cultures that occur in this holy land.
We started our day crossing a checkpoint into the Palestenian West Bank so that we could visit Bethlehem. As we entered the prison like wall, we were greeted on the Israeli side with a large sign saying, "Peace be with you." On the other side of the wall were many expressions of anger. One in particular saying, "Israel, thou shall not steal." You cannot begin to understand the impact of the conflict until you see it first person. Even now, after a lecture from a United Methodist missionary at Bethlehem Bible College(our first stop of the day)on the Israeli/Arab conflict, we still have more questions than answers. This conflict does not just affect Muslims, but also the many Christians who are Palestinian and have been so since the time of Jesus. We were able to pray for peace in the land at the College which trains many of the Christian ministers throughout the holy land. It was a powerful experience.
We then left the college and headed to the church of the Nativity...the church built over the place which Jesus was born. We sat in the cave where St. Jerome translated the Bible into Latin as our Bus Captain recited from memory Luke 2. We then sang verses from O Come All Ye Faithful, O Little Town of Bethlehem, Joy to the World and Silent night. Many of us were overcome with emotion. We will never sing those hymns the same again. We then went down to the exact location where they believe Jesus was born, manger and all. While there Megan lit a candle for Epworth and spent time in prayer for everyone there! It seemed to be a fitting spot. Our final site in Bethlehem was the Shepherd's field, where the angels appeared to the shepherds.
After lunch we headed back to Jerusalem and got to see a great view of the city from Haas Promenade. Then we headed to the house of Caiaphas, where Jesus was tried before the high priest for the first time, imprisoned for a night, and where Peter denied Jesus three times.
We were able to enter the pit where Jesus was held. While there we read Psalm 88 and sang the Lord's Prayer in darkness. To be in the very same place that Jesus spent that lonely night moved several to tears.
Then we went outside to walk down the very steps that Jesus took to get from the Upper Room to the Garden of Gethsemene. And back again from the Garden to Caiaphas house. And back again to his second trial with Pontius Pilate. The steps have been dated back to the 2nd century BC.
Our last stop was on Mt. Zion to visit the Upper Room. While there we read Luke's account of the Last Supper. It has been remodeled by both the Crusders and the Muslims and is now owned by the Jews. So it was many times removed from the original room, but pretty cool none the less.
Tonight the Sabbath begins, the holy day for the Jews. Things will be quiet tonight, which we could probably use after a very emotional day.
Thank you, we love you, keep praying for us!

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Many more miles today...

We write from the Holy City of Jerusalem, the largest city in Israel, with a population of 750,000. It was a little sad today to wake up and look out at the Sea of Galilee for the last time. Departing Tiberias, we travelled south to Bet She'an to visit the ruins there. Seeing the ancient city that was once the chief city of the Roman Decapolis. I felt for a moment as if we were actually in Rome. The restoration of Bet She'an was amazing. You can read about Bet She'an in 1 Samuel 31. While Jesus never reportedly went to Bet She'an, the next stop was somewhere Jesus knew quite well, Nazareth. The fourth largest city in Israel, Nazareth has currently around 300,000 people living in Upper Nazareth (Israeli Jews) and Lower Nazareth (Israeli Arab and Arab Christians). It is a far cry from Jesus' day in which the population was 500. Archeologists have unearthed 50 homes from Jesus' time and they estimate each family had an average 10 members. The church of the Annunciation commemorates Mary being visited by the angel Gabriel and as our guide Rula said, "She said yes and our salvation story began." What a simple yet poignant way to describe that scene. The church was built around and over the home of Mary and is truly an amazing architectual acheivement.

While visiting the Church of the Annunciation we heard our first call for prayer for the Muslims of Nazareth. It wasn't too long after that when the bells of the church began ringing loudly, almost as if they were in competition.

While in Nazareth, we also visited the Precipice of Nazareth which was a very high point that looked over the entire city. A city of 300,000 in the US can only be completely seen from above in most places, but when your city is built on the side of mountains, you can see it all and it is quite impressive. We also looked out on Mt. Tabor where the Transfiguration occurred and where Barak's army defeated Sisera's army with the Lord's help (Judges 4).

Leaving Nazareth, we headed south to Megiddo, an ancient city that was strategically important b/c of its location on the trade route from Egypt to Mesopotamia. It was conquered 25 times, one of which was done by King Solomon and the Israelites. So many wars were fought there that John in the Book of Revelation believed that the final battle would be fought there...Armageddon.
At Megiddo, we ate an awesome lunch of falafel sandwiches, which even Joe decided to take a chance and try. The verdict is still out if he will try it when he gets back to Mt. P.

After Megiddo, we went Southwest to the Mediterranean Sea and to Caesarea. Caesarea's Biblical importance can be found in the 10th chapter of Acts. The ruins of the town still contain an ampitheater that is used today as well as Herod's Palace and Hippodrome. Herod truly knew how to live the royal life as his palace was built on a point on the Mediterranean Sea. It was a vital port city for the Romans coming from Italy.

Our day ended finding us travelling Southeast to Jerusalem. The land is beginning to change from the lush green valleys to a more stark, dry, desert, rocky environment. The beauty of the last two days, site-wise and weather-wise, was something to behold. Thanks for praying for that. Keep praying for us as our 'faces turn to Jerusalem'.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

Long First Day

Day one of touring has come and gone, leaving us exhausted. It's 6:45PM over here and we are preparing for dinner. Our morning started 12 hours ago with a wake up call that came way too early. After a breakfast that included many different kinds of cheese and fresh cut veggies (yes there was cornflakes, too), our day began with a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee. While on the Sea, we cut the engine to the boat and spent some time reading scripture together. Interesting enough, the Sea of Galilee is not nearly as wide as one would think. It really is just a good size lake, which it is also called Lake Tiberias. Once we landed, we spent some time looking at a 2000 year old boat that they excavated a little over twenty years ago. The moving part was hearing that the same nails that were used to hold the boat together were also used for crucifixion. To see a nail that was the same age as the nails that were used on Jesus...strong stuff.
There was something special today about being in the place of 85% of Jesus' ministry.
We then made our way inland a little ways to the Valley of the Wind or the Valley of the Dove. It contains the old Roman road that leads from Nazareth to Galilee. Remarkably, the land is all very green as we are in the middle of the rainy season, but you would never know it based on our weather today, sunny and mild.
We made our way to several important places in Jesus' life. Standing on the hills of the Mount of the Beatitudes, Matthew's words came alive from the fifth chapter, "When Jesus saw the crowds, he went up the mountain and after he sat down, his disciples came to him. The he began to speak, and he taught them..." You could easily see how thousands could have been around him and how he easily could have spoke and they could hear him simply based on the layout of the land. We then went to Tagbha where the Church of the Miracle of Multiplication sits very close to the Church of the Primacy of St. Peter. The former was the site of Jesus feeding the 5,000, with the latter being the location of Jesus appearing to his disciples post Resurrection, reported in John 21. Were these the actually places? Maybe. Probably even. But what we do know for sure was we were looking out and seeing the exact same layout that Jesus could see and boy was it beautiful!
We then went to Capernum, the ancient town where Jesus performed many miracles and spent a good amount of time. The church that is built over the top of what is widely believed to be Peter's home was built in the round with a glass bottom so as to look upon Peter's home. The church contains one of the most beautiful alter tables I've ever seen. I wish I could include a picture, but I haven't figured out how to do that yet. The rest of the town has been excavated to show different homes and buildings, and the ruins are remarkably in good shape.
All of this was before lunch. For our meal, we enjoyed several local foods like hummus, cabbage slaw, Turkish Salad, spicy carrots, beet slaw and St. Peter's Fish, which was lightly fried tilapia that still had its head on when served. That made some in our group squirm. (I also think a few had pizza, so don't worry, Joe is eating something, he even tried the hummus and a date.) Our only visit after lunch, thankfully, was to the Yardenit Baptismal site on the Jordan River. While it is not thought to be the exact site where Jesus was baptized, it is very similar and a place where people come from around the world to be baptized or to remember their baptism. While there we participated in a baptismal remembrance. What was so great about the spot was its appearance. It looked like any river you could find in SC. It wasn't very wide and had trees running all along to provide shade. We actually saw a couple of otters playing on the other side. This was vastly different than what many of us expected. All in all, it was truly a remarkable day. Again, just being able to lay our eyes upon the same layout that Jesus would have seen and loved means a great deal. We can't wait to share pictures when we get back. Stay tuned for more...

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

We Made It!

After an extremely long day of travel we finally made it! We arrived in Tel Aviv at 6:15 Tuesday evening over here, that would be 11:15AM for you back home. Needless to say, the flight was rough...not much sleep. Landing at night, we haven't gotten to see much, just the rolling hills or mini-mountains in the distance. We are staying in Tiberias, a really cool city on the Sea of Galilee that appears to be built on the side of a mountain. Tomorrow morning we wake up and go for a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee, among many other things. Thanks for your prayers for safe travel. Keep praying for all of us. We will update you tomorrow.

Sunday, February 17, 2008

The Night Before...

We want to thank each and every one of you for keeping track of us during our journey. We hope to make some regular entries as well as to add pictures when we can. If for whatever reason we get over there and it doesn't work out, we apologize ahead of time. This is kind of a shot in the dark anyways, but we figured we'd give it a shot. We go on this trip representing so many people and we hope to be able to share our journey with each of you. This will just be one way of you going along with us. Please pray for us, especially for those of us who tend to forget to bring things. Pray that whatever we forget is not major. And pray for safe travel. Thanks again for your support and we hope to report the next time from Israel.